Tomato Pasta #4 | Spring Jackets
An easy and low-effort dinner, for when it's technically spring but still cold and wet
I periodically forget about Jacket Potatoes. And then, when we do have them, I wonder why I don’t cook them more often.
Invariably, the meal is a success. There are no tantrums. Plates are left clean, with little or no prompting. And the effort involved is minimal: merely enough foresight to put the potatoes in the oven more than an hour before needed; then, at the last minute, some reheating of beans and grating of a sharp cheddar.
Is it only a good option for autumn and winter meals, though?
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While you’re here, I think you’d like my latest book, Good Eggs. It’s a compendium and celebration of egg dishes. Perfect inspiration for weekend brunches, but also speedy breakfasts, lunches and suppers any time of the week. Always a speedy and nutritious family meal option too.
Spring Jackets
I do think jacket potatoes would be a jarring choice on a hot summer day. Probably on a balmy day in spring too.
Thing is, right now in the UK we are technically well into spring — magnolia and cheery blossom has been and gone, the wisteria is out (and probably over soon), the trees are full of leaves, Easter has been and gone, and asparagus is very much here — yet the weather is miserable. Even if the days begin with a blue sky, the afternoons cloud over, temperatures are frequently in the low teens or less, and the rain remains relentless.
And so, jacket potatoes *are* absolutely the right thing. But perhaps a cheering, verdant filling would lift spirits a little. So that’s what I cooked the other day, and offer here.
It’s sweet leeks, smoked pancetta, niblets of asparagus and sugar snaps, the ballast of cooked chickpeas, a pop of frozen peas, a little cream to sauce it up a bit, plus mint to lift an already bright collection of ingredients even higher.
I loved it, we loved it, I think you will do to.
A note on the spuds
A good jacket potato is probably in the region of 300g before cooking. And then around 1 hour and 15 minutes later is crisp and crunchy on the outside, fluffy within. It’s helpful to turn them once or twice to ensure even browning, but otherwise you can forget them.
The aftercare is where you need to pay a (little) attention.
Cut open using the point of a knife, then score and prod the flesh before adding lots of salted butter. Leave that to melt for 30 seconds, then fork the insides again, fluffing them up. It makes all the difference.
This is all simple stuff. You probably do it already. I’d just hate you to get distracted and forget.
The Recipe
Jacket Potatoes with Spring Greens
Put the potatoes in the oven. Forget about them. And around fifteen minutes before you need to eat, spend (barely) a couple of minutes chopping, a few moments stirring, and you’re done. This is both invigorating and comforting, a definite winner and (potentially) a crowd pleaser.
Serves 4 (easily halved / doubled / or just use it as a guide)
4 large baking potatoes (c.300g each), wiped clean
80g salted butter in slices (or more…)
—
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
110g smoked pancetta (or 200g smoked lardons)
2 leeks (approx 400g), thorough washed and cut into 1cm discs
300g asparagus, cut in 1cm discs up to the tips
15g sugar snap peas, cut to the same size as asparagus pieces
240g cooked chickpeas (drained weight)
200ml double cream
150g frozen peas
15g mint leaves, very finely chopped
Bake the potatoes for around 1 hour 15 at 190C, until the skin is browned and crisp, turning once or twice over that time. To speed things along, you could microwave for 10 minutes first, baking for another 15 minutes or so, turning during that time for even crisping.
When the potatoes are nearly ready, put the oil and pancetta in a wide sauté pan set over a medium heat. Cook for 4-5 minutes, so the pancetta begins to render and bronze a little, then add the leeks and a pinch of salt. Stir, cover and cook for 4-5 minutes more so the leeks steam and soften.
Add the asparagus, sugar snaps and chickpeas, mix well and warm through for 90 seconds. Then stir in the cream, bring to a simmer (approx 60 seconds), add the peas, bring back to a simmer (another 60 seconds or so), then remove from the heat, stir in the chopped mint. Taste — add a little salt and black pepper if you think it needs it (the early salting, pancetta and mint will already help matters).
Cut the potatoes open, score and prod the flesh a little, add loads of butter and, 30 seconds later, use a fork to fluff up the insides, then spoon the filling into and over them.
Swaps
As with all Tomato Pasta recipes, this recipe is eminently customisable — to suit your shopping basket, fridge and taste. Do what you like with it, I’m not precious!… if it’s fairly close in style and spirit, it’ll still be good:
if asparagus is still on the expensive side (or the season is over), substitute with broccoli (florets from a normal brocolli; romaneseco; tenderstem brocolli (broccolini), purple sprouting broccoli — any will do) or fine green beans. Mangetout are also a good option for inclusion;
if not pancetta or lardons, then meat from 2-3 sausages in fingernail-sized pieces; cooking chorizo; cooked ham hock; or no pork at all;
if you don’t have double (heavy) cream, single is fine. Also creme fraiche. In fact, most days creme fraiche is my preference (just make sure it’s full fat, not half fat with stabilisers (as these split when heated). Also, if your pot has a little more than the amount suggested, use it all.
If not mint, then you could add some fresh thyme towards the end of the leek-cooking process; wild garlic at the point the asparagus and peas go in (so that it wilts and the harsh edge is softened); or tarragon, parsley or dill at the same time as the mint would’ve gone in.
Years ago someone (I can’t remember who) told me you should bash a jacket potato to open it and pull it wider as the ragged canyon that results causes much more steam to escape and the skin remains very crisp. Stick *that* in your award winning book about baked potatoes