ROCKET & SQUASH | A Cook's Digest | by Ed Smith

ROCKET & SQUASH | A Cook's Digest | by Ed Smith

Greens means healthy, right?

A chard gratin. Heavy on the cream and cheese.

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Ed Smith
Apr 10, 2026
∙ Paid

You might have noticed that in last week’s recipe round-up I mentioned I was in need of greens after two months of living in hotels, Airbnbs and friends homes, fuelled largely (and happily) on rice, noodles, chicken and pork.

On touching down in sunny London I realised that I was also in need of dairy. Specifically double cream and gum-receding-strength cheese.

Satisfaction arrived almost instantly by way of a chard and Parmesan bake; something that once sat on my now archived rocketandsquash.com, but which I’m reviving here. Because it’s worth it.

This is the kind of dish that sometimes gets served as a side … only to outshine the centrepiece.

So while you could plate this next to roast chicken or lamb, perhaps a thick cut pork chop, I think you’d be better off ignoring the meat and just diving straight in.

Some boiled baby potatoes are an excellent accompaniment. You might also add cherry tomatoes, scorched in a pan or blasted in the oven with a glug of olive oil, sprinkle of salt and sugar and a dash of vinegar, until they’re blistered and sinking. Alternatively, some warm bread and (after the greens and their sauce are gone) a sharply dressed baby gem salad.


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Chard, anchovy and Parmesan bake

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