On The Side #6 | BBQ Sides
A magic formula
Welcome to July’s ‘On The Side’ column. You can find previous editions here. If you browse you’ll see that there’s always a general discussion of the ingredient/genre in question, with ideas and prompts for ways to turn that thing into a Great Side and then at least 3 recipes.
Most of this column is behind a paywall; it takes me an age to ensure these weekly posts and the recipes within them are interesting, entertaining and above all, tasty. And for you, well, sides are what ultimately make a meal, so I hope you’ll agree there’s value here.
To access R&S without restriction, including the archive, please do consider supporting this newsletter by becoming a paid subscriber. If you’re a fan of the posts that are currently free to all, such as the ‘Supplemental’ recipe round-up and the ‘Tomato Pasta’ family cooking column, you might also consider upping your egg game with a copy of my latest cookbook, Good Eggs …
Sun’s Out, Grills Out
Whisper it: BBQ season might finally be here.
At this time of year, supermarkets stack their shelves full of BBQ friendly meats. Like, masses of it. Without fail, we shove it into our baskets and then onto the flames.
Hundreds of thousands of words have been written trying to shift the bangers, burgers and burnt chicken dial. But the reality is that (for most Brits at least) those centrepieces are likely to stay.
Pompous food writers (me) might be sad about the wasted words. But, actually, the easiest and best way to make a barbecue better / more interesting, is to make smart decisions about the sides. So I’m going to spend more time writing about that.
It is of course the bits on the side that will turn a sausage fest into a proper meal. Creative spicing and embellishment can also move things in a different direction to the norm. Plus, judicious selection will also mean that the whole process is a logistical success (i.e. stress free, plus people get fed at broadly the time you were aiming at).
TLDR, I think you need: (1) something charred; (2) something cold and crunchy; (3) something carby; and of course, (4) a tomato salad.
One of those can be cooked on the grill, the rest should be in advance and at room temperature; or simple, no cook, speedy assemblies.
It’s also necessary to consider fresh, sweet and tangy flavours. Because all elements must be capable of cutting through the smoke and fat and char of whatever meat(s) being served, and capable of holding their own against the other bullish sides too.
Below, then, are thoughts and ideas for each of my four categories of BBQ sides. Plus three recipes:
The first, My Current Favourite Potato Salad;
the second, flame-roast spiced carrots set over curried yoghurt (although it is also infinitely adaptable);
and then another recipe for burnt vegetables by my pal Helen Graves, who is far far better than me at cooking over flames, and indeed has followed her excellent Live Fire cookbook with BBQ Days, BBQ Nights.
It’s been a rubbish year for cooking outside. But hopefully these sides will help you make up for lost time. Paid subs not only get all the words and recipes that follow, but also one of you can claim a copy of Helen’s book. Read on!
See you next week, Ed
The options
Something charred
