Sink into stuffed vegetables
Two recipes, sunshine combos, and what is 'room temperature' when it's baking outside?
Are you sick of the ‘what to cook in a heatwave’ emails and columns yet?
This one isn’t totally bucking the trend. But I also recognise that the truth is you probably already have your fall back hot weather meals, and embarking on new ideas and cooking projects, however simple and/or refreshing, will use more energy and require more food shopping than is appealing right now.
Does your fall back involve tomato salad? Me too. Normally just salt and olive oil, with the tomatoes at room temperature. Although I had a ripe, orange-fleshed peach, tarragon, anchovies and capers to hand the other day, and they were very welcome additions.
The ‘room temperature’ tomatoes are an interesting feature. Obviously cooks advise room temperature for tomatoes because they both ripen and taste better when not fridge cold.
But I think there’s a secondary pleasure involved too, on a hot day, when eating food that’s a touch warmer than tepid.
Yes freezer cold pineapple, melon or mango, cherries on ice, cold soups and cold noodle dishes are refreshing …
[side note: this Hiyashi Kitsune (cold udon noodles, sweet tofu, tendashi) from Koya Ko is another dish that really hit the spot this week.]
… but I have a soft spot for stuffed and braised roasted vegetables that have been cooked to the point of sinking, and then are left to rest for a leisurely amount of time – 15, 20, 30 maybe even 40 minutes – but because ‘room temperature’ is so hot, they’re still relatively warm when you eventually tuck into them. Admittedly with chilled rosé and a salad or two nearby. It feels very chic. Very holiday mode.
SO, this week there are two recipes for paid subscribers on this theme.
First, merguez and harissa rice stuffed tomatoes and peppers; and then tuscan sausage ragu stuffed courgettes. Enjoy!
Got some chicken in the fridge that you haven’t had the energy to cook? Grab a copy of my latest cookbook Peckish. There are loads of summery ideas in there – multiple salads, no effort one tray bakes, BBQ recipes and rubs and more. And you could probably use it as a handheld fan.
This week’s recipes
Merguez and harrisa rice-stuffed vegetables
For reasons I cannot fathom, few if any of the British supermarkets sell merguez sausages. However, they (or similarly spiced lamb sausages) are readily available at most butchers, both off and online. I love the gentle heat and bright red juices that drip from them – qualities that are made use of in these quietly fiery, harissa rice-stuffed tomatoes and peppers (in Greece known as ‘gemista’). Serve with basic oven chips (or olive oil-roast potatoe wedges) and a simple green salad, plus an extra dab of harissa for those that want it.