ROCKET & SQUASH | A Cook's Digest | by Ed Smith

ROCKET & SQUASH | A Cook's Digest | by Ed Smith

In the centre #15 | Deep Fried Elderflowers

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Ed Smith
May 16, 2025
∙ Paid
Spied last week: elderflower peeking through the white wisteria. This got the cogs whirring and saliva flowing.

Every morning, while cycling my son to school, I make sure to point out what’s happening to, on and around the trees, hedges and bushes along our route. I think it’s because I’m hyper-conscious that I, a child of the countryside, am bringing him up as a very urban one. Might also be because I’m getting old.

March, April and May are, of course, among the best months for this activity, as the scene changes on an almost daily basis. This year has been a really good one for blossom and flowers (all that sunshine + virtually no wind or rain…), and I was particularly cheered at the end of last week to note the first sprays of elderflower.

For some industrious types (looking at you, Mark Diacono & Julius Roberts), this means cordial and champagne. I’ve neither the space nor the inclination. Instead I prefer a scattering of flowers and pollen over some berries and yoghurt. Plus, perhaps less predictably, a few…

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